Rites of Spring

Rome may be a bustling city of 3 million inhabitants, but for many Romans, the seasons are still marked by agricultural traditions that span millennia

FAVA BEANS: SYMBOLS OF FERTILITY AND DEATH

Fava beans signal the arrival of spring:  few Romans would think of celebrating the 1st of May (Labor Day) without sacks of fresh fava (also known as broad beans) accompanied by the sharp and salty Pecorino Romano sheep's milk cheese, chewy, dark-crusted casareccio bread and wine from the Castelli Romani, the Roman countryside to the south-east of the city.

Fave e Pecorino

Yet these beans have a dark and mysterious history: they were believed by the Greeks to contain the souls of the dead. It was said that the black spots on the blossoms formed the shape of the Greek letter Theta, used as an abbreviation for thanatos, death. Pythagoras expressly prohibited any contact with them, though for Aristophanes they were an aphrodisiac: in one of his comedies Hercules, after eating a plate of broad beans, deflowers 10,000 virgins. The ancient Romans offered them to divinities associated with the underworld and used them in funeral rites. Even today, fava beans are part of traditional dishes served on the Day of the Dead (1 November) in some parts of Italy.

Who's Afraid of Beans?

Starting from the last days of April, fava beans appear in open-air markets and groceries, often accompanied by a warning sign "FAVE SFUSE" (loose fava beans). Although rare, even skin contact with broad beans can be dangerous for people with favismo, a serious genetic enzyme deficiency particularly common in some isolated parts of southern Italy, where as much as 20% of the population is affected.

Favas in their Pod

Fresh fava beans are sold in their pods, which are split open and discarded. Most of those who snack on the fresh beans prefer to strip away the rather bitter, light green outer skin to get to the brighter, sweeter flavor of the bean encased inside. 

They "marry" well with olive oil, pancetta, onion and pecorino in soups, stews and pasta sauces. Most Italians would scoff at the addition of garlic or cream often seen in non-Italian recipes, as it covers up the taste of the fresh ingredients.

FRUITS OF EARLY SPRING

FRAGOLE (Strawberries)

fragola favetta - a variety from the town of Terracina, south of Rome

Spring wouldn't be Spring without strawberries. Forget elaborate desserts: one of the most sublime tastes of  spring is a cup of strawberries topped with dollops of whipped cream, now appearing on Roman menus everywhere. 

The town of Nemi

Tiny Wild Strawberries

NEMI
Once famed among the ancient Romans for its Temple of Diana, a center of worship from the early 5th century BC, today the tranquil town of Nemi is best known for its delicious wild strawberries (fragoline di bosco) that grow on the volcanic slopes of the lake. 

About 30 km from Rome, the town holds its annual strawberry festival on the first Sunday of June, preceded by the flower festival the day before.

NESPOLE (Loquats)

Oranges have gone out of season, and it's still too early for apricots and peaches. Luckily, area loquat trees are heavy with fruit.

Loquat Tree

Inside a Loquat

Originally from the far-east (China and Japan), loquats are very successfully cultivated in the Mediterranean. Due to the size of the seeds, you may not get much edible flesh from a single loquat, but it has a sweet and tangy taste that's refreshing, especially on a warm spring day or after a heavy meal.